An Introduction to Savile Row

Wikipedia describes Savile Row as a “shopping street in Mayfair, central London, famous for its traditional men’s bespoke tailoring”. Savile Row is not just a name of a street though, but the name of a way of tailoring.

Many of the best know London Tailors have been located in Savile Row at one time or another. According to the Ralph Lauren glossary Savile Row is, “a term used to describe men’s tailoring clothing inspired by the excellence and elegance established by a group of upscale tailors conducting business in shops along a street called Savile Row in the West End of London”.

How did Savile Row become synonymous with the world of bespoke tailoring?

It is not certain which were the first tailors to be based on Savile Row. What is certain is who is credited to be the founder of Savile Row, or at least the founder of it as an area for tailoring. His name is Henry Poole and in 1846 he inherited his Father’s tailoring business on Old Burlington Street, which runs adjacent to Savile Row. He opened a second entrance to the shop not long after, which opened onto Savile Row. However, there were tailors on the street prior to this. In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s more tailors started to establish themselves on the street, creating its tailoring reputation.

What of Savile Row now?

These days there are fewer tailors based on Savile Row. Rents have increased in the street and many of its tailors have been forced to relocate to surrounding areas. You could say that Savile Row tailors have become a victim of their own success. Due to the quality of its tailors it became a well known and sought after location for businesses, and landlord saw this as an opportunity to make more money. As a consequence there are fewer tailors on Savile Row than there once were.

Savile Row isn’t just an address

Savile Row isn’t just an address but a tradition. Savile Row is synonymous with quality bespoke tailoring and world famous for the tailoring industry. This means that despite not having a Savile Row address tailors previously based on the street are still getting business based on their Savile Row traditions.

What is a Savile Row suit?

A Savile Row suit is described as “a hand-made suit made specifically to a customer’s specifications”. They are made to customer’s exact measurements, not a choice of sizes like in most high street retailers. Clothing patterns are designed from scratch with the customer given a choice and the stitching is unique. All in all, a Savile Row suit should be completely original as customer’s pay for a suit made specifically for them.

Non-bespoke tailoring on Savile Row

With Savile Row so well known for tailoring there have been tailors moving into the area who to not work to the Savile Row traditions. This has caused some disputes in the area, with some traditional tailors worried that cheaper, but lower quality tailors, are taking a share of their business. They worry that when customer’s see two tailors side-by-side with one charging significantly more than the other, they will choose the cheaper option. Others feel that genuine bespoke tailors will always have enough businesses and that traditional Savile Row tailors and cheaper tailors are not targeting the same clientele anyway.

Andrew Marshall (c)